I was having fun a few weeks ago getting lost on French Sewing blogs and came across the Cupid pattern from I Am Patterns.
I immediately loved it. It looked cute and comfy and something that I would get a ton of wear out of. There is an english translation of the pattern so I decided to give it a go! This was a easy top to put together - it is designed to be entirely sewn on the serger and I probably spent more time putting the pdf pattern together and cutting out the fabric than it took me to make the top! The pattern recommends a jersey and so I choose to use Pink Hollybush's Aqua Organic Cotton Jersey. I also think this would be fantastic is a light sweater knit and might have to make this again for Fall.
There are a couple things to note when making this pattern. First, the seam allowance is 3/16 of an inch. I have never seen a seam allowance that narrow and thought perhaps it was a mistake, but the French version (which you also receive with your purchase) specified a 5 mm seam allowance which is equivalent to 3/16 of an inch so no mistake. The pattern specifies using a 4 thread serger, but my serger can't make a 3/16 of an inch seam allowance with 4 threads, even if not cutting off any fabric. I would use the three thread narrow stitch instead and then you can achieve that narrow seam allowance. With this particular pattern there is plenty of ease so if you seam allowance is a little wider (mine often was), it shouldn't be a problem.
Second, the pattern contains diagrams, but not of what I considered the "trickier" parts, so here are some pictures. When constructing the top, line up the cut edges of the collar band with the cut edges of the front so the folded edge extends beyond the bottom.
The fronts overlap before the bottom band is added by matching up the center fronts. I placed the wearer's right over the wearer's left which is how a women's blouse closes. I basted this on the sewing machine before I serged on the bottom band.
The one problem I did have with the pattern was the lower bottom band. The pattern explains that the band is smaller than the circumference of the top and that it needs to be stretched to fit the top. This is typical of necklines so that the band hugs the neck, but I didn't want the lower band pulling in on my top - I wanted it to just hang straight., especially since the back is longer than the front.
Still, I trusted the pattern, and serged on the band. It pulled in and it was strange looking, especially in the back. I ended up cutting a new band. The original band was 1 1/2 inches smaller than the top. I made my band the same circumference as the top. I also basted it on before I serged it so I wouldn't have to rip out all that serging again! Finally, I widened my lower band by doubling the width. I thought it would be more aesthetically pleasing if the lower band was the same width as the lower portion of the collar band. Overall, I love my new top and this is one of my two new tops for Me Made May!