Working with Guipure Lace: 5

We are almost there - just this post and one more! Sewing seams and inserting a zipper are simple when you are sewing with Guipure Lace. Just as with darts, it is too bulky to include the lace in the seam. Instead, only the fashion fabric and the underlining (which is treated as one) are seamed.

Pin the lace out of the way, and sew the seam as you normally would.

See how bulky the area around the seam is with the lace and how flat the seam is!

To finish the seams, finger press them open, as in the picture below, and catch stitch them in place.

On the outside of the dress, overlap the lace.

Now it is time to start trimming to eliminate the bulk. Again there is no need to follow the seam. Instead follow the motifs and keep standing back and surveying your work. You want the lace to flow with no visible break in the design. Although it is scary, it is better to over trim than under trim. Don't be afraid of the hole! Below is the trimmed lace.

You can easily insert a piece of a motif to cover a hole. Here you can see that I inserted an extra stem piect to cover the hole.

For zippers, insert an invisible zipper in the side seam, keeping the lace free. Again trim the lace trying to have only a few motifs overlapping the seam. Instead of sewing the motifs in place (you wouldn't be able to open the zipper), sew covered snaps to the overlapping motifs.

To wear the dress, zip up the zipper (yes, there is a zipper in that seam) and snap the motifs in place!

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