How to Choose the Correct Size for Children’s Sewing Patterns (Including the Buttercup Pattern)
- 4 hours ago
- 3 min read
Buttercup, the newest pattern from Pink Holly Bush Patterns, has just been released!
In today’s post, I want to walk you through:
How to choose the correct size for children’s sewing patterns
How to take accurate measurements
What to do if you can’t measure the child
How fabric choice (knit vs. woven) affects sizing
How much ease you really need
While I’ll use the Buttercup pattern as an example, these guidelines apply to any children’s garment you’re sewing. As always, you can listen to the video below or read through the post.
Children’s Sewing Pattern Sizes Do NOT Match Ready-to-Wear
This is the first thing to understand. Pattern sizing does not directly correspond to ready-to-wear clothing sizes. Pink Hollybush patterns are drafted from standardized pattern blocks meant to fit approximately 75% of children in that age range. That means:
A size 3 is drafted to fit most size-3 children.
But children vary tremendously in height and build.
A child who just turned three will likely measure differently than one who is almost four.
The good news? Pink Holly Bush Patterns are not skin-tight styles. There’s some flexibility built in, which makes fitting a bit more forgiving.
The Two Key Measurements You Need
For Pink Hollybush patterns, you really only need two core measurements to choose a size confidently:
1. Chest (or Waist) Circumference
With young children especially, the waist can sometimes be larger than the chest. So what you’re really looking for is the largest circumference around the upper body.
To measure:
Place the tape under the arms.
If the tummy is fuller, lower the tape slightly.
Measure the largest circumference in that area.
That measurement is what determines your base size.
Why? Because the main area that needs to fit is the upper chest, shoulders and neck area.
2. Height
Measure from the top of the head to the floor. Height determines length, always choose your size based on chest first. A length ajustment is simple, changing the fit around the shoulders and neck is not.
What If Chest and Height Don’t Match?
This is extremely common. For example, one of our Sewing Circle members regularly makes a size 3 dress for her granddaughter ith the length of a size 5.
Her granddaughter is tall and slender, so the size 3 fits beautifully through the chest and shoulders. She simply adds length. Don’t be afraid to add length, remove length and, blend between sizes. That’s completely normal in garment sewing.
What If You Can’t Measure the Child?
I hear this all the time:
“Lisa, there is no way this child will stand still long enough for me to measure!”
Or maybe the child lives states away (I understand that too!). So, here’s what to do instead. If you can’t measure the child, measure a garment that fits them well.
But here’s the key: Measure a knit garment if you’re sewing with knit. Measure a woven garment if you’re sewing with woven. Fabric type matters!
How to Measure the Garment
Lay it flat on a firm, flat surface (not a couch, my daughter did that and the knit fabric rounded to the couch shape and the measurement was off.)
Measure across the chest, just under the armholes.
Measure the finished length.
Now—this is important—don’t use the body measurement chart.
Instead, look at the Finished Garment Measurement chart inside the pattern booklet and compare those numbers to your flat garment measurements.
Knit vs. Woven: Why Fabric Type Affects Sizing
Some Pink Holly Bush patterns are knit-only. Others are woven-only.
Buttercup ( Rosie and Twirly Skirt as well) can be made in either knit or woven—which is wonderful for versatility, but it does affect sizing decisions. Knits and wovens require different amounts of ease.
What Is Ease (and How Much Do You Need)?
Ease is the difference between:
The child’s body measurement
The finished garment measurement
We need ease for movement—especially with woven fabrics.
Recommended Ease for Children’s Garments in the Chest:
Woven fabrics: 2–3 inches of ease
Knit fabrics: 1–2 inches of ease
Buttercup Sizing Example
Let’s say your child’s chest measures 21½ inches.
A size 3 Buttercup has a finished chest measurement of 23¾ inches.
That gives you:
2¼ inches of ease
That’s perfect for knit. But for a woven, you might consider sizing up or grading between sizes to provide a little more ease, especially if you are sewing with a thicker woven such as a flannel or fine wale corduroy. Botton line: Always double-check the finished garment measurements before cutting your fabric.
A Quick Checklist Before You Cut
Before you start sewing:
✔ Measure chest (largest upper body circumference)
✔ Measure height
✔ Choose size based on chest
✔ Adjust length as needed
✔ Check finished garment measurements
✔ Confirm appropriate ease for your fabric type.
I hope this helps you confidently choose the correct size for the next child’s garment you sew.
Happy sewing!
