Five Tips for Sewing Professional Looking Knit Garments (not Homemade)

In today’s post, I’m sharing five tips to help your knit garments look more professional rather than homemade—homemade only in the good sense. These are simple techniques, but they make a big difference in the final look and longevity of your knit garments. Below is the video if you prefer to listen. So, let's dive in. Here are some practical tips that will help your knit garments truly look polished and professional.

Let’s dive in.

Tip #1: Always Reinforce the Back Shoulders when sewing to achieve Professional Looking Knit Garments

This is something I’m always surprised more patterns don’t mention.

While very stable knits might not strictly require it, there’s really no downside to reinforcing the back shoulder seams. Knit fabrics have weight—even lightweight knits—and over time, that weight can cause shoulders to stretch out and ruin the look of a garment.

To reinforce the shoulders, simply add:

• Thin strips of knit interfacing along the back shoulder seams, or

• Thin clear elastic (not the thick swimsuit elastic)

For Pink Hollybush Patterns, I usually recommend interfacing because these are children’s garments, and kids can be very sensitive to anything uncomfortable. The cotton knits that I recommend for Pink Hollybush patterns are more stable knits.

However, if you’re sewing with something very slinky or a knit with lots of stretch and poor recovery, clear elastic can give you extra support. Take the extra few minutes to reinforce those shoulders—it makes a huge difference over time.

Tip #2: Always Interface Openings

Any area with an opening should be interfaced.

That includes:

• Buttons and buttonholes

• Zippers

• Snaps

For buttons, interface both where the button is sewn and where the buttonhole will go. For zippers, add thin strips of interfacing in the seam allowance on both sides of the zipper opening. The same applies to snaps. These are areas you don’t want stretching, especially with repeated opening and closing. A little reinforcement here will help your garment keep its shape and function well.

Tip #3: Be Prepared to Adjust Neckline Bindings

If you’re sewing a knit garment with a bound neckline, be prepared to adjust the length of the binding. The purpose of a binding is to pull in and support the neckline while providing a clean finish. This works because the binding is cut slightly smaller than the neckline circumference.

The challenge for pattern designers is that different knits behave differently:

• They have different stretch percentages

• They have different recovery

It’s impossible to create one binding length that works perfectly for every knit.

As designers, we test many knits and choose a binding length that works for the greatest number of fabrics—but you may be using a knit that behaves differently.

So if your neckline:

• Is puckering because the binding is too short, or

• Is gaping because the binding isn’t short enough

Don’t assume you did something wrong, and don’t assume the pattern is wrong. It simply means you need to adjust the binding length slightly to suit your fabric. A well-finished neckline is key to a professional-looking knit garment.

Helpful Resource for Necklines

If you want more help with knit necklines, be sure to check out the Enjoying the World of Knits book. It includes step-by-step photos and tips for executing seven different neckline finishes and will help you achieve that professional result.

Tip #4: Lighten the Presser Foot Tension to Avoid Wavy Hems

Tip #4A: Lighten the Presser Foot Tension & Use Duel Feed or a Walking Foot

Wavy seams and hems are one of the biggest challenges when sewing knits, especially hems where you’re sewing on the cross grain, which has the most stretch. If you’re hemming on a sewing machine (as I do most of the time), the first thing to try is reducing your presser foot pressure. This is not the same as thread tension. Presser foot pressure controls how much force the foot applies to the fabric. Lightening it slightly can make a world of difference. Most machines allow you to adjust this setting. If you’re not sure how, look up your machine model online. If your machine has dual feed or a walking foot, try using it—especially when sewing across the cross grain. Sometimes it doesn’t make much difference, but other times it makes a huge improvement so the knit garments you sew look professional and not homemade. When I was working with a sweater knit recently, using the dual feed made all the difference in achieving a clean, professional hem.

Tip #5: Use a Fusible to Anchor Hems

Another very effective way to prevent wavy hems is to anchor the hem before stitching.

You can use:

• Steam-A-Seam Lite

• HeatnBond Soft Stretch

• Temporary basting tape

These fusibles hold the hem in place before you sew, preventing the fabric from stretching as it goes under the needle. This is especially helpful for hems.

Bonus#6: Use Steam

Most knits respond beautifully to steam.

Don’t be afraid to press your knit garments well. If the fabric contains polyester, lower your iron temperature and use a pressing cloth—but give it a good steaming press.

You may be surprised how much waviness will simply press right out.

I hope you’ll give these tips a try. And again, if you’re looking for more help with sewing knits, be sure to check out the Enjoying the World of Knits book.

Happy sewing! 🧵