Welcome to the second bonus embellishment lesson! Today I am going to show you how to make a scalloped edging by both machine and hand. We will also discuss why you would want to choose one over the other. This delicate scalloped edging is a second option for the neckline of your July Flowers Dress. You can find all the details of the July Flowers Sew-Along here. Sign up for the monthly newsletter to receive the Free Daisy Smocking plate as a free gift! Let's dive in and start making our edging - the video is below!
Choosing a Fabric:
Scalloped edging is an adaption of the narrow shell hem which was used in heirloom sewing on baby garments and ladies lingerie. It was a way to narrow hem a lightweight fabric and give it a delicate scalloped edge at the same time. Now we can duplicate this look using a blind hem stitch on the machine. Here is the finished edging made from different fabrics. The lighter the weight fabric, the more pronounced the scallop.
Determining Yardage Needed:
To begin making the edging, first determine the amount of yardage you need. Simply measure the neckline of your dress. The edging is not gathered; however, you do want to have some extra yardage so add a few inches to the neckline total . Cut a bias strip 1 1/2" wide by the length that you need. The video shows how to find the bias and the number 8 pattern piece that is included with the July Flowers pattern can also be used. If you need to piece your strips to have enough yardage, place right sides together at right angles and sew across the diagonal.
Sewing the Edging by Machine:
Remember to press your seams open! Fold the strip in half lengthwise and place it under your machine slightly off center. Set the machine for a blind hem stitch. Widen the stitch to 4.5 and shorten the length to 1. Slightly increase your tension.
The zig of the stitch should go over the folded edge and off the fabric.
You may need to play with your machine settings to get the scallop to form.
To Make the Edging by Hand:
If you are using quilting cotton like I am for the edging, or if you would just prefer your scallops to be larger, then you may want to make your edging by hand. Again cut a 1 1/2" bias strip. Mark a grid on the fabric with your marking pen making the marks 1/2" from the long raw edge and 3/8" apart.
Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, thread one of your Sharps needles with the matching sewing thread, knot it and come up through the fold straight up from the first dot. Take the thread behind the fabric and bring the needle out at the first dot.
Again take your needle behind the fabric and come out at the same place. Your thread is going up and over the fabric from the front to the back. After pulling the needle through the second time, pull on your thread slightly to from the scallop. On the front of the fabric, take 2 running stitches horizontal to the fold coming out at the next dot.
Take the thread over the top of the fold and bring your needle out at the dot from back to front. Go over the top again and pull taut. Continue along in this manner forming your scalloped edging. The edging will be attached to the neckline by stitching it from the back bodice raw edge to the other back bodice raw edge using a 1/2" seam allowance. I will show you how to do that in the lesson on finishing the neckline.
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