3 Common Knit Garment Neckline Problems (And How to Fix Them)

Knit necklines often make or break a knit garment. When the neckline lays flat, hugs the body properly, and has a clean finish, the entire garment looks polished and avoids that "homemade" look. Here are three changes you might need to make to a knit garment neckline in order to get a great fit and a beautiful result. As always you can listen or read along!

Adjust the Knit Neckline Binding Length for a Better Fit

If you are sewing a knit garment finished with a binding, which is how most knit garments are finished, you may need to adjust the length of that binding.

The binding has a big job. It needs to:

• – Provide a beautiful, clean finish

• Avoid adding bulk

• Stretch enough to allow the garment to go on and off– Pull the neckline in slightly so it lays flat

• Prevent the knit from flopping or gaping

To accomplish all of that, the binding strip is drafted slightly smaller than the neckline circumference. That smaller measurement is what allows the binding to pull in and support the neckline. The challenge for a pattern designer is finding the sweet spot between the binding being too small and too long. Too small and it will pull the neckline in too much. Too long and it will not provide the needed support. Designers test multiple knits and choose a length that works well for most knits, but the knit that you choose may behave differently.

If your neckline is puckering or pulling in too much, it could be because you are using a thicker or firmer knit. You may need to lengthen the binding slightly. If your neckline is gaping or flopping, especially with a lighter knit that contains rayon or viscose, you may need to shorten the binding. The key is to be prepared for this possibility. If you are unsure how your knit will behave, baste the binding on first with a long stitch and check the result.

Choosing the Best Fabric for Knit Neckline Bindings

The second neckline change you may need to make is using a different fabric for the binding. If your main knit fabric does not have much stretch or does not recover well, it may not be suitable for the neckline binding. The binding must stretch enough to allow the garment to go on and then recover back into shape. That means it needs good recovery. Knits that contain spandex or elastane often work well. Some rib knits also have excellent recovery, though not all do, so it’s important to evaluate your specific fabric. If your garment fabric does not have sufficient stretch or recovery, be prepared to swap in a different knit just for the binding. You can choose a coordinating fabric, or you can turn the binding completely to the inside so it is not visible from the outside. The key is that whatever you use must stretch and recover properly.

How to Reduce Bulk in Knit Neckline Facings

Now let’s consider necklines that are finished with a facing rather than a binding. Some knit garments, such as boat necklines or asymmetrical designs, use facings instead.

In those cases, you may need to reduce bulk by choosing a lighter fabric for the facing. For example, I made this boat neckline Oliver top in a double knit that was somewhat bulky. Rather than use the same fabric for the facing, I chose a thinner cotton rayon jersey from my stash. This reduced the bulk and gave me a much cleaner finish.

I learned this lesson the hard way when making the asymmetrical Sentosa Tank for my daughter from Itch to Stitch. I used a cotton jersey for both the garment and the facing. When I turned the facing to the inside, no amount of stitching or pressing would make it lie flat. I had to rip it out and replace the facing with power mesh, which is very thin. That allowed me to achieve a crisp, clean neckline shape.

If you would like more help with knit necklines, the Enjoying the World of Knits book walks step by step through seven different neckline finishes and explains how to alter one neckline to another. It can help you modify a neckline if, for example, you need to change an exposed binding to a hidden finish.

Happy sewing.

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